Powerdynamo für BMW R61, R66, R71, Dnepr, Ural

Einbauanleitung für System 74 07 599 00 sowie System 74 19 599 00	Version 10.02.2013

If you can install your stock dynamo/alternator and possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo! If you never have worked on your electrical system, better have it done by someone who knows.
Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice.
IMPORTANT:	Designated use This system is designated to replace stock ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly enhance roadworthiness and road safety by offering increased reliability compared with the aging stock systems . As our systems do not tamper with engine characteristics they do not increase emission of gassous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of pullutants should be even reduced due to better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid for Germany, as this situation might be different in other countries, please consult your local road licencing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in competition events. If used other than designated warranty is voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired results. In worst cases use not in accordance with designated use might entail legal roadunworthiness.
	Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle. Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be careful during the first test runs. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance).
	Please always use shielded spark plug caps (but not more than 5Kohm) with this system as the hall trigger element is very sensible and may catch the emission of a spark which can lead to ignition disturbances, even failure.
	Never place converter and advance unit (same housing) back to back, even as this might sound convenient. It can result in ignition failure, even destruction of material due to interference
	Our systems are NOT tested for use with other electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, other 3rd party material.) and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported. It might be that your motorcycle was originally equipped with an ignition that did limit top speed for legal reasons. The new system does not have such a facility, so check your legal situation beforehand
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

	You should have received those parts: adapter with double hall sensor magnetrotor (1 magnet, as there are 2 sensor 180°) advance unit voltage converter 2 x CDI ignition coils HT cables setup wire and small fastening parts

Preparation: Make sure your motorcycle rests stable, preferably on some elevated platform and that you have good access to the front of the engine. Disconnect the battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Make sure that you do not spill petrol when you take the tank off (so needed).

Overview of assembly: The stock points arrangement (or so you have already electronic trigger unit) will be replaced by a hall trigger. The camshaft will take a magnetic rotor with one magnet. Outside engine you need to fit the 2 ignition coils, the advance unit and the converter. Each cylinder gets only his spark, unlike the stock situation where both spark same time. assembly:
	Remove the distributer cover with the HT leads, the rotorfinger and the points plate. The bowden cable may stay for optics but will no longer be of any function.
	Place the new trigger unit into the emptied housing. Wires are led upwards through top left hole. This will be a little cumbersome.
	Fasten the new plate with the provided 2 screws M4x20 Schrauben. The old adjusting screw (red encircled in picture) has to be moved more outwardly or removed, so that it does not disturb the setting of the new plate.
	Note: The 2 fastening screws may be too long and protrude at rear, preventing good seat on the engine. So, if needed cut them accordingly.
	Place the distributer housing back to the engine block. Place the magnetic rotor onto the camshaft. The magnet should level with the top surface of the hallbase. Do not fasten the 2 small rotor screws yet. Now you need to time the engine. Take the crankshaft into a position where the piston of the first firing cyclinder is 50° before top dead center. Those 50 degrees have nothing to do with the actual preignition of the engine, but are a constant the system needs. Setup after this will be helped by the LED on the top of the advance unit as described below.

You may consult the wiring described below in graphic form in wire diagram 7412 (for twin spark 2 cylinder systems diagram 7422)

The hardware described below is a battery based condenser discharge (CDI) ignition for assembly at camshaft level in 2-cylinder 4-stroke in-line or flat twin (boxer) engines. Ignition every 180 degrees camshaft. Material not suitable for V-engines, also not for 4stroke 4cylinder engines (for which we offer material based on 7414).

First, get to know the wires and plugs at the advance unit (labeled 74 00 52).
	Here you have: plug 1 with wires red, white, yellow/black to connect ignition coil 1 plug 2 with wires red, white, red/black and pink to connect ignition coil and temporarily for setup, the setup wire plug 3 with wires white, blue/white and green/red to connect the converter plug 4 with wires yellow/black, red/black, white and red/blue to connect the hall element.' (pictures may be enlarged online by clicking onto them)

Start with connecting the cable from hall-sensor unit to advance unit
	After you have ushered the wires from the hall-sensor through possible tight openings you put the flat 4 hole plug cover onto the wires from the hall sensor. Wire colours remain same. Both plug parts have some elevation to help orientation (we marked them green here for better visibility). Please double check that really colour connects to colour on both sides of the plug connection
	Identify the cable on the advance unit (pos 2 in overview picture) which has a pink wire in it. You have received a cable called setup cable with wires red and white. The plug on this cable matches the plug with the pink wire. When you connect you match. pink with red white with white For setup please connect a battery 6 to 12V (may also be a 9V block as shown here). Red to plus, white to minus. Note: only for systems with negative ground!
	The hall unit shown here free on the table needs surely be fitted onto the distributer at this moment. When you turn the hall rotor - still loosely sitting on the distributer shaft and with the battery connected as described - you will notice that at some point a diode starts shining, than stops doing so until in the next crankshaft revolution, the next does the same. The yellow diode indicates situation on the ignition coil to be fitted on plug one with the wire yellow/black. The red diode indicates situation on the ignition coil to be fitted on plug one with the wire red/black (and pink)

Now you need to set basic timing. For this, the crankshaft has to be in a position in which the piston of the first igniting cylinder is 50 degrees before top dead center (TDC). Though with many stock systems it does not matter which cylinder is in which cycle as both cylinders get ignition always same time together, with this setup it does matter as each cylinder gets only his one ignition per crankshaft revolution. If the igniting cylinder is not in 2nd cycle (compression/ignition), but in 4th (exhaust) than the spark is lost into the exhaust and the engine will not work. Those 50 degrees have nothing to do with any engine advance, they are just some internal reference the system needs. If the engine permits excess to the crankshaft flywheel than place a degrees disc there for finding the 50°. This is more precise. For setup please take sparkplugs out to ease compression.
	Should you not have access to the crank for timing you will need to use the camshaft. If you can not fix a degrees disc there, use the following workaround: To help you with timing, the hall element has 2 sets of lines forming segments. The smaller segment, comprising 25° is labeled CAM and is used here. The other (CRANK) is for other applications. 25° as on cam-level you have half angles compared to crankshaft angles.
	The basic idea is to use those markings and the an edge of the magnet for timing. The illustrations here refers to cams turning anticlockwise, but for clockwise turning cranks the whole setup is just mirrored, basically however same. The looked for 50°s mark is always in working direction of the shaft before TDC.
	Take the piston of the first cylinder (make sure it is first one!) into TDC. Place the hall rotor loosely onto the shaft and turn it there (without changing the cranks position) until the (in working direction) front edge of the magnet aligns with the line most advanced into working direction (see picture). In this position fasten the rotor carefully with one of the stud screws. This is not for keeps, but for the time of next step only.
	Now turn the crank until the edge of the magnet which had been first in line with the segment border first in direction now lines up with the segment line second in direction. (make sure the rotor does not slip on the shaft during this operation). Now you have your crank in the wanted 50° position. As diameters at cam level are small the method is not the most precise, but it will do and fine tuning may be made with shifting the ignition unit in its long holes.

	With crankshaft in mentioned 50° position of first firing cylinder and pink setup wire connected you slowly turn the hall rotor (sitting loosely on the shaft, do not fasten!) into working direction until the yellow diode starts to shine (should the red one shine first, turn on until the yellow starts). Than slowly turn further into same direction until the yellow diode stops shining. In this position (with crank still at the mentioned 50° situation) fasten the hall rotor on the shaft with the 2 small screws and the allan key. The ignition coil fitted to the cable which contains a yellow/black wire is the coil which now fires first and the exit of which has to be connected to cylinder number 1 The system now has its basic timing.

	Setting the diverse characteristics (advance in relation to engine revs) is done by setting the 4 small switches in the blue switch block on the advance unit as indicated in the respective instructions.

	With this system you normally have 2 single exit ignition coils (system 74 12 599 00), but you may - for twin spark in each cylinder - also have 2 twin coils with 2 exists each (system 74 22 599 00). Each of the physical coils fires once per crankshaft revolution, different one full revolution between the two. On the twin coil, both exits fire at the same time. The twin coil does have a short blue wire on it which in this configuration remains free (do not connect anything there!)

Take the setup cable off and connect the ignition coils as indicated above.

Now, get to know the cables and plugs at the converter, labeled 7051.
	From the converter box come 3 wire bundles one bundle with a wire red and a wire white having open ends a second with wires red, white. blue/white and green/red ending in a 4hole male plug a third with wires red/green, white and blue/white ending in a female 4hole plug

The cable with the open wires red and white:	is for connection to the battery. Connect the white to minus of the battery and the red to plus of the battery - via the main switch. Include a 5A fuse and always run the wire via the main switch. Otherwise you can not stop the engine and you will drain your battery during longer standstills.

The cable with the male 4 hole plug ...	... you connect to plug 3 of the advance unit. colour matches colour. blue/white to blue/white red to red white to white green/red to green/red

the cable with the female 4 hole socket ...	... remains free (do not connect anything here, cover the plug with tape)
Finally - and before you connect the battery- carefully check again all wiring and fastening. This ignition works with 6 or 12 volts battery (but not without!). It automatically adjusts to the supplied voltage (6 to 12). Should you experience problems, consult our knowledge base.

With this, work at engine level is finished and you need to fasten the parts outside engine.

Have a look at the small blue switch block on the top siode of the advance unit. Those 4 switches activate different advance lines.

This setting brings a start at TDC to prevent kickbacks. From 500 revs/min on till 1200 revs/min pre-ignition will be 9 degrees to enable stable idling. From there onwards till 3000 revs/min advance will gradually increase to 34°.

This second setting will bring a start at 2° BTDC. From 500 revs/min on till 1200 revs/min pre-ignition will be 9 degrees to enable stable idling. From there onwards till 3000 revs/min advance will gradually increase to 38°.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. Never use copper putty on spark plugs.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark.
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the material. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle