Powerdynamo regresa el encendido
y la luz
a su moto clásica
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Powerdynamo regresa el encendido |
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¡Apesadumbrado! |
versión 15.01.2013 |
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Por favor lea primero las instrucciones completamente antes de empezar con la instalación o la modificación de las piezas. Tenga en cuenta las llamadas de atención en la página de informaciones para el sistema. |
| Si no tenga conocimientos técnicos para la instalación, entonces por favor deje realizarla de una persona cualificada o de un taller técnico correspondiente. Una instalación inadecuada causa daño tanto en el nuevo sistema como en la motocicleta. | |
| Antes de pedir el sistema, por favor comprueba mediante la lista de paquetes (o bien la foto
"piezas en volumen de entrega") si la herramienta recomendada de nosotros para
extraer el rotor (extractor) está contenida en el volumen de
entrega. En caso negativo por lo mejor pídala también directamente.
¡En caso de daño al rotor por usar otros herramientas y medios (inadecuados), el derecho de garantía
prescribe! Cuando un rotor está sentado demasiado bajo (por cualquier causa), toca y destruye la unidad de estator que está debajo. |
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Si tiene acceso a Internet, vea esta documentación en línea. Puede ampliar los imagenes por cliquear sobre ellos y entonces recibe más
informaciones. Lista del sistema en: http://www.powerdynamo.biz |
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El rotor es muy sensible a efectos de golpes (por ejemplo mientras el transporte). |
| Compruebe en cada caso antes de la instalación de la pieza el estado fijo de los magnéticos por intentar apartarlos con los dedos al
lado. Después de efectos de golpes, algunos de los magnéticos pegados podrían haberse soltados y podrían estar fijándose solamente por su poder magnético que resultaría en daños graves en el dispositivo mientras el funcionamiento. Al mismo tiempo, por favor comruebe los magnéticos del rotor por cuerpos extraños (por ejemplo tornillos u otros objetos metállicos). |
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Estas partes las debe haber recibido:
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Para retirar el viejo y el nuevo rotor necesita un extractor M27x1.25 (Número de
partes: 99
99 799 00 -No
en el alcance de la fuente!-).
ATENCIÓN: ¡Al usar un extractor de garras se sueltan los imanes en el rotor! |
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| Make sure your motorcycle rests securely,
preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the
dynamo side of the engine.
Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without battery. If you want to drive without battery AND there are indicator lights on your bike, you have to installate a electrolytic capacitor (min. 20.000mF/16V) for smoothing the pulsing voltage in place of the battery. It might be that your local road traffic regulations demand the existence of a parking light facility (and hence battery, please check). You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts. |
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Take the old magneto and the ignition coil off.
Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it anymore. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved. (Photo shows engine of the 125ccm version!) |
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Have a look at the new stator unit. You will find there a near the smallerer black coils a small red
marking. This is an ignition marking for timing.
Attention: There is no reason to remove the stator from its mounting plate. But if you do remove it, please insure that it reinstalled as before, otherwise the marking is no longer valid and your ignition timing will be wrong. |
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Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a small
pressed in line. That is an ignition marking too.
This marking aligns with the stator's marking in the point of ignition. |
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Place
the new stator unit onto the engine, same place as the old stator plate
had been sitting.
The larger black coil and the wire will show upwards.
(Picture shows older version!) |
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Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely
above the statorbase, check carefully that it clears the heads of the
screws holding the inner plate to the adapter.
Take the spark plug out and bring the piston into "TDC" (top dead centre) position. As this is difficult to do with the kick lever, using the rotor as a turning knob. |
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| Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the
crank's position and reset it onto the crank in such a way that the
marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the ground plate. In that
position fasten the rotor carefully with the original crank nut.
Make sure not to modify the crank position during this operation,
otherwise you have to redo the whole procedure. To
undo the rotor use a puller M27x1.25.
With that the work on the engine is finished. Put the spark plugs back. |
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Fasten the new ignition coil at the place, where the original coil was fastened. Leave one of the screws loose, you have to add a ground cable terminal here. |
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You may place the advance unit and the regulator underneath the seat (instead of the battery). For that you have to adapt a 3mm aluminium plate (not enclosed) between the 4 mounting lugs of the frame (where the side covers were mounted). Fasten the regulator at the bottom and the advance unit at the top side. |
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Fixing the advance unit that way has the advantages that the black box is difficult to distinguish from the previously placed battery and you have good access to the mini switches (for choosing the different advance curves) at the rear side of the unit. |
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| Take during the installation of the advance unit a look at the little blue switching block at the upper narrow side. There are 4 switches for choosing the different advance curves. | |
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With all switches on OFF (opposite ON) the engine will reach full advance of 38° at 3.000rpm, as it should be. |
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Some customers have recommended this setting with 5° at idling and 40° full advance at 3.000rpm. |
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