Powerdynamo regresa el encendido
y la luz a su moto clásica

     

¡Apesadumbrado!
Instrucciones de asamblea para Sistema 70 74 999 00
solamente en lengua inglesa.

versión 26.03.2010

 


 IMPORTANTE:

Por favor lea primero las instrucciones completamente antes de empezar con la instalación o la modificación de las piezas. Tenga en cuenta las llamadas de atención en la página de informaciones para el sistema.
Si no tenga conocimientos técnicos para la instalación, entonces por favor deje realizarla de una persona cualificada o de un taller técnico correspondiente. Una instalación inadecuada causa daño tanto en el nuevo sistema como en la motocicleta.
Antes de pedir el sistema, por favor comprueba mediante la lista de paquetes (o bien la foto "piezas en volumen de entrega") si la herramienta recomendada de nosotros para extraer el rotor (extractor) está contenida en el volumen de entrega. En caso negativo por lo mejor pídala también directamente. ¡En caso de daño al rotor por usar otros herramientas y medios (inadecuados), el derecho de garantía prescribe!

Cuando un rotor está sentado demasiado bajo (por cualquier causa), toca y destruye la unidad de estator que está debajo.

Si tiene acceso a Internet, vea esta documentación en línea. Puede ampliar los imagenes por cliquear sobre ellos y entonces recibe más informaciones.
Lista del sistema en: http://www.powerdynamo.biz

 


 El rotor es muy sensible a efectos de golpes (por ejemplo mientras el transporte).
Compruebe en cada caso antes de la instalación de la pieza el estado fijo de los magnéticos por intentar apartarlos con los dedos al lado.
Después de efectos de golpes, algunos de los magnéticos pegados podrían haberse soltados y podrían estar fijándose solamente por su poder magnético que resultaría en daños graves en el dispositivo mientras el funcionamiento. 
Al mismo tiempo, por favor comruebe los magnéticos del rotor por cuerpos extraños (por ejemplo tornillos u otros objetos metállicos).
Estas partes las debe haber recibido:
  • stator assembly
  • rotor
  • advance unit
  • ignition coil
  • regulator
  • HT cable
  • incidentals
Para retirar el nuevo rotor necesita un extractor M27x1.25 (Número de partes: 99 99 799 00 -No en el alcance de la fuente!-).

ATENCIÓN: ¡Al usar un extractor de garras se sueltan los imanes en el rotor!

Make sure your MV rests securely on her centre stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine.

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts.

For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery.
Unscrew the dynamo cover.

Pull the magneto flywheel with a convenient puller tool.
Unscrew the stator plate (3 screws) and take it off.

Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)
Disconnect the wires from your old ignition coil and remove the coil.

The ignition parts at the left side of your engine (points and govenor) will not be used any more. You may leave them there or remove them.

 

 

(Picture shows different engine!)

Have a look at the new stator unit. You will find at its base plate a small red marking. This is a timing mark.

Should you take the stator coil completely off its base, make sure to reset it at the correct position.
Have a look at the new rotor. On its circumference you will find a small pressed in marking. The marking is durable, but not well visible, especially when the rotor is fixed. So it is a good idea to highlighten the marking with some colour (simplest with a marker-pen).

As we talk about markings:
The rotor has an clockwise pointing arrow on it. No need to worry, it will perfectly work on your anticlockwise turning system. The anticlockwise orientated stator will make sure of that.
 

 

PHOTO

Place the pre-assembled stator assembly onto the engine, same place as your original stator had been sitting. The larger black coil will show towards the wire exit.

Screw the plate down with the 3 screws M5 provided.

Lead the wiring harness from the stator through the wire opening at the front of the engine outside.

Take the spark plug out and bring the piston into top dead center position (TDC, the highest the piston can get). As this is difficult to do with the kick lever, place the new rotor onto the crankshaft (do not screw it down) and use it as a handle to turn the crank.
Once TDC has been found, carefully disengage the rotor again without moving the crank shaft's position from TDC. Than place it in such a way back, that the marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the base.

Fasten the new rotor by screwing it down with a  ???. Make sure not to change the crank position. Put the spark plug in again.

It might will be that after some test runs you may wish to modify timing a little. After all, there are more than one type of MV and out setting is a standard fail safe one.

 

 

(Picture shows different engine!)

You change timing by:
  • screwing the puller into the rotor, poping it from the crank
  • and (without changing the position of the crank) resetting the rotor at the wanted angle. Setting it more into a clockwise position will initiate later timing, shifting it anticlockwise will bring earlier - remember, you have a left-turning engine.
Now, the new ignition coil, the advance unit and the new regulator/rectifier have to find a place on the motorcycle. The regulator is well dimensioned and does not need to get airflow.
You may place the parts at any convenient spot, including an empty battery casing.

As the system may work without battery that gives an easy place for hiding the parts.
Before installing the advance unit, have a look at the small switches at the advance unit. They acticate different characteristics. There are 4 switches activating different advance curves. This MV wants a curve from 18 to 55 degrees.
The best curve for MV (in our opinion) is shown here. From 18° advance at idling revs, it goes up to a full advance of 55° at  3.500rpm.
With this setting here, max avance is reached only at 5.000rpm (in our opinion a little late).
Should you want to throttle the engine back at revs higher than 8.500rpm with otherwise same values as in the best curve above, use this setting.