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Please, earnestly consider that parameters other than ignition could well
be a possible cause of the problems. |
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We hear a lot that the engine did run well with the stock
system. We will not dispute this, but have to ask, when was this last
time it did run with the stock system? And what else did you do since?
Compleately redo engine? Change, clean carb? retime valves etc?
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In quite a few cases after installation of the
Powerdynamo System you may need to set the fuelmix leaner (lower needle,
smaller main jet even) |
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Here a few suggestions :
- Always use new fuel. Fuels age quite rapidly, sometimes after a year they
will be wothless already.
- Thoroughly cleane the carburettor, fuel
tank and filters.
- Check crank shaft oil seals (for 2-strokes)
If your machine has covered high mileage, isn’t used regularly, or been stood
in the corner of your garage for the last twelve months or more then the chances
are that the crankcase seals would have hardened and have lost their flexibility
at the lip. The springs in the back in the lip will not be strong enough to over
come this hardness so the seals will not grab the crank and seal properly.
Symptoms include poor starting and idling, spiting back, engine starts and stops,
poor performance and excessive smoke etc caused by negative pressure pulling oil/air
into the crankcase from the gearbox through the suspect seals and the gearbox
oil will be lost.
Another simple check is to remove the carburettor from the inlet stub and while
kicking over the motor so it is spinning rapidly place the palm of your hand or
a piece of paper over the inlet stub and check the suction, if it is very little
its time for new seals.
- Check the airfilter and the exhaust system . If that is clogged you stand
no chance of the engine starting. Paper filters might have sucked in
moisture acting as a screen.
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Very often spark plugs turn out to be the problem. Had
they been working on about 10KV before, they now get ca 40KV - and might
not stand this voltage any more! |
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- carburetor problems
nobody wants to hear this, but more often
than not there are ebay offers where carb needles do not match the
needle jet or do not sit in the middle of the jet. Customers did buy
"new or refurbished" carbs, trusting they are ok, which they
mostly have not been.
In twin engines this often makes the customer think that one
side of a twin ignition coil is faulty (which
can not be).
also missing or bad carburator
insulation can lead to starting problems when hot.
- wrong assembly of engine or assembly with wrong or bad parts (2stroke
pistons exhaust side to barb, larger crank sprocket leading to slower
starting revolutions, bad oilseals magneto side in 2strokes,
- using battery ignition without battery as
relying on our dynamo (alternator) only system. Can not work!
- tuning activities (modified compression, bore, even stroke,
camshaft modifications etc)
This we get a lot. People change bore, stroke, compression, crank angles
(In twins), camshafts... you name it. Our
material is always made for the standard engine, not a tuned one!
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