Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light
to your vintage motorcycle
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Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light |
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| Assembly instructions for system 13 06 799 RT |
Version 16.12.2011 |
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If you can install and time a stock ignition and
possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo! |
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| Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice. | |
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Please read these
instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Do not cut off wires. This leads to a loss of reverse polarity protection and often results in damage to electronics. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be careful during the first test runs. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance). During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage. |
| Designated use This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator & ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability. As our system does not tamper with engine characteristics it does not increase emission of gaseous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of pollutants should even be reduced due to better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid for Germany, for other countries, please check locally against your road licensing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in competition events. If used other than the designated way, warranty will be voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired results or, worst you loose legal roadworthiness. The charging system is only suitable for use with rechargable 12V (6V systems 6V) lead-acid batteries with liquide electrolyte or sealed lead-acid batteries, AGM, Gel. It is not suitable for use with nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lithium-ion or any other types of recharchable or non rechargable batteries. This is a replacement system and not a copy of the stock material. The parts in this system therefore look different and might fit differently (notably ignition coil and regulator) requiring some adaptation by you. |
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| During assembly imperatively start with assy of engine based parts to see that those really fit before you start fitting the external parts. In many cases customers assemble those first and thereby often modify them in breach of warranty which renders them unfit for renewed sale. Replacing old ignition systems is not a matter of taking something from a supermarket shelf as there have been very many types, versions and possibly unknown aftermarket modifications which harbour plenty of room for error. | |
| Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting etc)and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported. It might be that your motorcycle was originally equipped with an ignition that did limit top speed for legal reasons. The new system does not have such a facility, so check your legal situation beforehand. | |
| If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm. | |
| Before you order a system, please check whether a puller
tool for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not,
better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc. Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other tools or methods is not covered by warranty. |
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| The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage. | |
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If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz |
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You should have received those parts
Please pay attention: The stator and the sensor are not tightly screwed to the base plate as
you have to remove the stator for mounting the base plate on the crank
case. |
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To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25 (part-no.: 99 99 799
00 -Not provided!-).
Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off. |
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To disengage your old rotor, you will need a puller screw M10x90 (part-no.: 89 99 026 00 -Not provided!-). |
| Notes on wiring: Experience shows that in the course of time nearly every motorcycle undergoes changes to its wiring. As a result, wire colours and wires themselves on your bike might differ to those we describe. In case of doubt, please consult the original wiring diagrams for MZ (e.g. on www.ostmotorrad.de). |
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| Make sure your MZ rests securely on her
stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access
to the generator side of the engine.
Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will have a 12 volts system further on, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones however in that case too. The horn may stay at 6 volts. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery. You have to decide which method of ignition cut-off you will use. There are different ways. We have pre-assembled the relay option. |
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Relay option (delivered as standard) pro: You may use the ignition lock as previously. There are no changes on the handling of your bike. contra: You can't use the new system without the battery (but in a case of emergency you can drive without, only the ignition cut-off is out of work). |
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Position 5 method
pro: The bike will be totally driven without battery. This is a big PRO for oldtimer, they will be seldomly driven. contra: You can't cut-off the ignition with the ON/OFF position of the ignition lock, you have to switch the lock short-time on position 5 (previous bump-start position). Further, the bike may be kick-started without ignition key. |
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Cut-off switch method pro: The bike will be totally driven without battery. There is no relay, that might fail. contra: You have to install an additional cut-off switch, preferably at the handle-bars. Tip: You can convert the flasher button as the cut-off (kill) switch. |
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Disconnect the cables from your old dynamo. This is normally:
Then remove the generator. |
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Disconnect the cables in the switch box, that go to the regulator and to the
ignition coil. This is normally:
Remove only the cables between generator and switch box. |
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Pull the armature of the stock dynamo by help of a bolt M10x90 from the crank. (order number: 89 99 026 00 -Not supplied as standard-) |
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If on the carter there still is the arresting pin, remove it (pull with pliers or cut it off). Otherwise the generator won't fit.
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Remove the 3 fixing screws which hold the stator coil to its
base. Now you can lift-off the coil a little away from the
ground plate (ca. 1cm). So as the mounting holes on the ground plate become
accessible.
Take care:
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Put the base plate (consisting of the outer steel ring and the inner aluminium plate) with the stator hanging loosely from the unit into the place of your old dynamo. The larger black coil will have to show into about 5 o'clock. Make sure to use the correct set of fastening holes and screw the plate down with the help of the 2 countersunk screws M5. |
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The photo shows how the outer steel ring has to be positioned on the old generator.
(The photo shows a similar engine!) |
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Once the plate is fixed, reset the stator coil onto it. Here
make double sure not to pinch any wires underneath. At the end, the coil
will sort of snap in sharply, even with some noticeable click. If it sits
down rather softly, you can bet there is a wire underneath. Take care
that the coil sits even on the ground plate, otherwise the unit will be
damaged or at least it causes dysfunctions. Check once more the mounting holes of the stator: take care to use the right ones for your engine (see above). Screw down the coil with the 3 screws M4x25. |
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Under no circumstances effect mechanical changes
on your engine casing in order to fit the system (save for pulling or breaking
the pin at the stator base). Do not try to assemble the new stator without the
steel ring, even if you think temporarily that fitment may only be achieved that
way.
The steel adapter of the system will come to sit at the upper recess for the dynamo, as shown here in the picture (and not somewhere further down the engine as you might initially tend to think). (The photo shows a similar engine!) |
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At the wire exit you should use the stock rubber seal. |
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Place the rotor loosely onto the crank shaft. Pay attention at the woodruff key, it holds the rotor in the right position. Sometimes will the woodruff key stands to high above the shaft. In that case you have to shorten it with a file. |
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To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25.
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Under no circumstances introduce a pin ( such as a screw driver) into the rotor to hold it during fastening. This will damage the coils underneath! |
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How to set timing? Have a look at the new rotor. You will find at its circumference a small laserd in line. This is some ignition marking. |
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Have a look at the new stator assembly. Here to, just left of the first coppery coil left of the 2 small black ones you will find a point marking. |
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Both are timing marks. They align at moment of ignition.
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Now you need to position some parts outside the engine, ignition coil
and regulator |
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The simplest solution for the ignition coil:
Fasten the ignition coil by clamps or cable binders on the frame under the tank. In the case of the old-fashioned look you lead a "dead wire" from the switch box upwards under the fuletank. From here goes the "live ht-wire" back downwards to the spark plug. For somebody no notice the trick, he would have to bow and look under the tank. |
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The smarter solution, but somewhat tricky to implement: Place the new ignition coil in the coil case. Take the (often quite
rotten) ignition coil out of the box. Keep - if still operative - the
switch assy there. |
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The switch assy remains in the box ... and the new coil can accommodated next to it. |
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Advices for mounting the ignition coil in the coil case: You have the option (in dependency of the quality of the stock material in the coil box and your willingness and ability to spent time and effort):
For the assembling of the ignition coil in the case, you have to remove the original ignition coil and the ignition lock. Take care: the cylinder of the lock is spring-loaded and it will be difficult to relocate. Then remove the ignition case and enlarge the original ht-cable openings. Relocate the coil case and saw-off the terminal block of the ignition lock (but leave the hole for the mounting screw on). |
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Connect the red, the white and the brown ground cable (from the new
generator) and the blue cut-off cable to the new ignition coil.
Battery plus remains on pin 30. To that point (or direct to the battery) goes the red cable of the new regulator. To solid ground goes either the brown cable of the regulator or the battery minus cable (then have to go the brown regulator cable direct to the battery minus pole). |
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| Fasten the new regulator and (so used) the relay in a convenient place, say inside the battery compartment. | |
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Installation neatly accomplished. |
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| The following steps are different, depending
of the cut-off method. At first take a look at the terminal allocation of the original main switch in the coil case. 
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| Relay and kill-switch method | |
| D+: the pin leaves empty, no
cable goes to this point 30: battery and connection to the new regulator (red cable) 54: brake light, horn, plus for charge control- and neutral gear indicator and relay (if mounted) 56: main light 58: parking light, front and rear 57: blank |
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| Position 5 method | |
| D+: the blue cable of the new
ignition coil 30: battery and connection to the new regulator (red cable) 54: brake light, horn, plus for charge control- and neutral gear indicator 56: main light 58: parking light, front and rear 57: blank Attention: If the neutral gear indicator bulb is defect, is the cut-off circuit out of order. You can help yourself by actuating at the same time the rear-wheel brake. |
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Please note: All our 6 Volt systems do not support the charge control function! |
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Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ir6: |
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To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side. | |||
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Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and
white).
Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:
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Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out. |
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The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye
terminal has to be screwed directly to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). |
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The regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which two are not used. A female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug): | ||
| The two black cables leading from the generator ... |
... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current. |
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| The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ... |
... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there a white wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis). |
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The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... |
... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30). |
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| Make sure that you have a 10A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry. | ||||
| The 6 Volt regulator has NO provision for a charge control light! | ||||
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Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire. Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!
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Switch off via separate kill switch (when driving without battery): The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position. Battery method: |
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The brown wire with the ring terminal
from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.
The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on. |
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Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...
Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it. |
... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before
mounting the
coil (it will be easier).
Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable. |
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You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and
spark plug
sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm).
Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even
completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). |
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Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test. |
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IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often
machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly
touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed
stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here. |
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Important safety and operating information |
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Safety first! Please observe the general
health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR)
as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the
manufacturer of your motorcycle. The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation. Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible for the installation and the correctness of settings. |
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Ignition systems generate high tension! With our
material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not
only be painful, but outrightly dangerous.
Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and
open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the
spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push
it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off. |
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Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws. |
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After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely. |
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Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block. In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material to us for checking |
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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions). |
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Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil. |
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Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs. |
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Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions. |
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When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material. |
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Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark. |
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It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion. |
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Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)! |
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Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while. |
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Please do observe these remarks, but at the same
time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system. Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart! |
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